History of Tea in Japan
A Brief Summary
Tea Comes to Japan from China.
Tea was introduced to Japan in the eighth century by monks who had spent time in China studying Buddhism. At the time, tea was already a popular beverage in China, and the monks used it as a stimulant to stay awake during their long hours of meditation. History records the monk Saisho (pictured) as being the first to have brought the custom back to Japan.
The Drink of Nobles and Monks.
In the early Heian Period, Emperor Saga (pictured) is said to have encouraged the drinking and cultivation of tea in Japan. According to legend, he was the first Japanese emperor to drink tea. Tea drinking was first referred to in Japanese literature in 815 in the Nihon Koki (Later Chronicles of Japan), recording that Eichu invited Emperor Saga to Bonshakuji temple, where he was served tea. At this time, tea was extremely valuable and only drunk by imperial court nobles and Buddhist monks.
The Spread of Tea in Japan.
In 1191, the monk Eisai (1141-1215), founder of the Rinzai sect of Zen Buddhism, brought a few tea-tree seeds back from a pilgrimage to China. He planted these seeds in the district of Hizen, as well as around the monasteries of Hakata (Fukuoka). Eisai spread the idea that tea should be consumed for its medicinal properties. He also wrote the first Japanese book on tea, Kissa Yojoki, published in 1211, which played a major role in spreading tea culture in Japan. In addition to seeds, he also brought back from China the custom of making tea from tea leaves ground to a fine powder (matcha) before being brewed. The importance of rtual and discipline as well as the austere nature of Rinzai Zen philosophy no doubt had a great influence on the rigidly codified evolution of the Japanese tea ceremony.
Japanese Tea Ceremony.
Tea would then be planted on Honshu, near Kyoto, where monks would cultivate and use the plant in the belief it helped with meditation. Later on, statesmen and intellectuals added tea into their daily routine as well, followed by the famed Japanese Samurai.
During the Muromachi Period (1333-1573), tea gained popularity among people of all social classes. People gathered in big tea drinking. At about the same time, a more refined version of tea parties developed with Zen-inspired simplicity and a greater emphasis on etiquette and spirituality. These gatherings were attended by only a few people in a small room where the host served the guests tea, allowing greater intimacy. It is from these gatherings that the tea ceremony has its origins.
Throwing Shade.
In the 16th century, shading the tea plants from sunlight with Tana canopies began – a process which is the origin of today’s Matcha and Gyokuro teas. O-oishita slows the growth of young leaves for the time needed for the accumulation of amino acids, a key substance for better taste in green tea. In Japan, where most tea fields are in flatter areas, sunlight in Spring has long hours. The shaded process, now applied mostly to better grade products, such as gyokuro and sencha for premium matcha, enables more producers to yield higher values.
Sakoku - A Policy of Cultural Isolation.
From 1641 to 1853, Japan remained cut off from the rest of the world. It was a policy of isolation, known as sakoku, which forbade anyone from leaving the archipelago and permitted almost no contact with the outside world. Power was concentrated in the hands of the shogun. For more that 200 years China alone provided the rest of the world with tea. However, the isolation of Japan was not entirely negative because, in addition to contributing to the development of the unique character of Japanese culture, it led to the perfecting of new ways of tea.
New Processing Techniques.
From 1641 to 1853, Japan remained cut off from the rest of the world. It was a policy of isolation, known as sakoku, which forbade anyone from leaving the archipelago and permitted almost no contact with the outside world. Power was concentrated in the hands of the shogun. For more that 200 years China alone provided the rest of the world with tea. However, the isolation of Japan was not entirely negative because, in addition to contributing to the development of the unique character of Japanese culture, it led to the perfecting of new ways of processing tea.
Tea growers all over the world halt oxidation of tea leaves by applying heat. While most growers heat the leaves on a large pan, in Japan, they steam the leaves. Using a method developed by Soen Nagatani in 1738, which brings out the fresh aroma of the leaves. Nagatani was able to create a green tea that was very different from Chinese green teas, making Japanese teas such as Matcha and Gyokuro more and more popular. As a result, Japanese tea makers began to innovate new ways of preparing tea.
Japan Re-Opens.
In 1859, Japan abandoned its policy of isolation and finally opened up to the international market. It began exporting tea overseas, mainly to the United States, which became a major source of revenue. At the end of the 19th century the archipelago began industrializing its production methods, in particular with use of heated rotating cylinders invented by Kenzo Takahashi (pictured left). The production of black tea on Japanese soil also began at this time.
Japanese Tea Today.
During the years after the First World War, Japanese tea exports set unprecedented records. At that time, Japan exported up to 22,003 tons (19,961 t) of green tea and 11,178 tons (10,141 t) of black tea. But the explosion in demand was shortlived, and Japanese exports of black tea dropped again very quickly.
As the Americans developed a preference for “English-tasting” tea (full-bodied black tea), it became difficult for the Japanese to compete with the large emerging growers in Sri Lanka, India and Kenya, who could produce tea at very low cost In the face of this competition, the Japanese market gradually turned more and more toward domestic distribution.
Several studies conducted by Japanese researchers in the 1920s revealed scientific proof that tea contained vitamins and catechins. To promote the sale of tea, the government published these results to encourage the Japanese to drink it on a daily basis, as an integral part of their diet. After the Second World War, various groups and associations of growers continued to promote the benefits of tea, and all sorts of by-products based on tea began to appear. Later, to facilitate distribution, tea was marketed in tea bags, and a lot of attention was paid to packaging and presentation.
Since then, Japan has increased its productivity considerably by using mechanical harvesting and new techniques for taking cuttings. They have concentrated almost exclusively on the production of green teas.
References:
- https://www.itoen-global.com/allabout_greentea/history_of_teahtml
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saich%C5%8D
- https://en.wikipeidia.org/wiki/Eisai
- https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2041.html
- https://www.umiteasets.com/blogs/umi-tea-sets-blog/tea-hisotry-in-japan
- https://www.teaguardian.com/what-is-tea/green-tea-production-steaming